Fabric shutters

                                                                                                            

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I see mainly two types of light leaks in curtains.
Primarily in vintage equipment there is a progressive or catastrophic deterioration of the fabric which leads to cracks, tears, and pinholes.
In more modern shutters this sort of major failure can also occasionally happen when the camera is exposed to severe conditions, contaminants, or destructive levels of air born ozone.


Usually a modern focal plane shutter is mechanically damaged either by being cut by some foreign material or burned from the heat of the sun being momentarily focused on its dark surface by the lens. During mid day in summer months at full aperture a severe burn can occur in a second or two with large aperture lenses focused on the fabric.


The only solution for old very deteriorated curtains is  replacement.
For curtains in good health but damaged, patching is the most economical and practical solution.

Some stiff but not cracked fabric can in some cases be treated to allow using the original curtains. 


In a SLR the curtain most vulnerable to burns is the second or following curtain which is exposed when the mirror is up in the unwound state of the camera if the camera does not have an instant return mirror.

 

                                                                                Early Graflex shutter with original curtains

                                                                  
 

I reconstruct shutters for cameras including;

Leica, Contarex, Exakta, Kodak Ektra, Ermanox, Canon, Nikon, Ashai, Contessa, Zeiss, etc. etc.

 

ALPA REFLEX [1] with Kevlar ribbons

 

                                                                                   

       

SPEED KODAK

 

                           

 

      INSTRUCTIONS TO USE BELOW IMAGE                                        

   

NOTE CAUTIONS *

A: SHUTTER WIND KEY  [* ONLY TURN CLOCKWISE ]  [POWERS SHUTTER AND ALLOWS CHANGING TO SMALLER SLITS]

B: PICTURE TAKING TRIP LEVER [ NEVER FORCE IF IT DOES NOT MOVE EASILY THIS PROBABLY INDICATES THAT THE WIND "A" MAY BE NOT WOUND TO THE PROPER POSITION

C: MANUAL TRIP FOR CHANGING CURTAIN SLITS WIDER

D: SLIDING AND PUSH BUTTON TIME LOCK [ T POSITION WILL LATCH THE TRIP OPEN AT THE END OF TRIPPING THE SHUTTER, PRESSING DOWN ON THE BUTTON WILL ALLOW RELEASE OF THE    TRIP ARM {B}  USE IN THE I POSITION FOR REGULAR USE OF THE SHUTTER AND {B} ACTION  === NOTE SEE { J }BELOW FOR  TENSION SETTING FOR  B  AND T

E: TENSION WIND KEY

F: SHUTTER TENSION LOCK PAWL [*VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER RELEASE SHUTTER CURTAIN TENSION USING  G WITHOUT HOLDING E TO PREVENT DAMAGING FORCE WHICH CAN EVENTUALLY BREAK  THE SHAFT HOLDING THE PAWL.

G:TENSION RELEASE LATCH FOR SHUTTER [ *USE EXTREME CARE EASING OFF OF TENSION BY HOLDING {E} TO PREVENT {F} FROM SNAPPING HARD AS TENSION IS RELEASED]

J: TENSION SETTING WINDOW [* RECOMMENDED SETTING: ALWAYS LEAVE ON 3 WHICH WILL ALLOW A GOOD SELECTION OF SPEEDS BY CHANGING SLITS RATHER THAN TENSION AND STILL ALLOW USE OF {B} AND {T}  ACTION

K: SLIT SIZE INDICATOR